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Just before sunset, the current picked up,to 5-6 knots. We watched the jukungs literally shoot through the channel on their way out for a night’s fishing. Others, taking advantage of the wind and a back current, headed for “mainland” Bali in the direction of towering Gunung Agung. This was one of the finest sunset shows I had ever admired in Indonesia. The tuna we bought ended up as sashimi and charcoal-grilled tuna steaks, and combined with a lobster Wally had snatched from a grotto on our first dive, we had a splendid supper. We   then spread our mattresses on the top deck, and settled down to drinking beer. A few little boats fished around us with bright pressure lamps, and we drifted off to sleep. The night was surprisingly cool, and I woke up at midnight to a sky full of stars. I quickly discarded all thoughts of a night dive as I heard the current rushing by the boat. The beer had taken its usual route, and I relieved myself overboard creating swirling bioluminesce on the water’s surface.

The next morning, after the sun had warmed us thoroughly, we headed back east along Nusa Penida’s coast to begin our next and last dive where we had ended the previous morning: in front of the long, red-roofed elementary school.This was a drift dive, in a 1.5 to 2 knot current that occasionally “gusted” to 3 knots. The fish hovered effortlessly in the current as we sped by. Swimming diagonally, we approached two large map puffers, and several smaller, but exquisitely patterned cube trunkfish. We also took a closer look at a hallucinogenic scribbled filefish.
Between two coral knolls we came on an aggregation of some 40 sweetlips.The fish were split into four groups, all facing the current. The sight of these attractively patterned fish  was too much to just pass by, so we carefully grabbed onto some hard corals and crawled along the bottom for a closer look at the sweetlips show. Perhaps feeling there was safety in numbers, these magnificent animals allowed us to approach to within 2 meters before they drifted off to find a new spot just a bit further away. While we watched our sweetlips, a turtle rose up just ahead and, with no effort at all, swam off straight into the current. Then, a huge grouper, well over a meter long, appeared out of nowhere, buzzing one of our group before disappearing just as suddenly. Consulting the fish books later, we came to a consensus that our visitor was likely to have been a blotchy grouper (Epinephelusfuscogattus). We later saw triggerfish, a barracuda and a reef white-tip shark; still, it was anticlimactic.